Permanent Honeymoon

El Morro Graveyard

Puerto Rico is an easy destination to get to from the eastern U.S. (where I live). The flights are cheap, and the island is an American protectorate, so there’s no need for a passport or to exchange your U.S. dollars.

I spent six days at the Hotel El San Juan in, of course, San Juan. The Hotel El San Juan is only a few minutes from the airport and a taxi ride is relatively inexpensive. The Hotel itself has a small casino and night club off the main lobby. I spent one night watching people at the craps table and couldn’t help feeling that it was a game in which four guys in dark jackets (one with a stick) just took people’s money. I completely do not understand the game!

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The pools are wonderful, with swim up bars and ample room to take in the sun. It’s a nice location to visit when the temperature back home is hovering around 20 degrees Fahrenheit. The best golf courses and beaches seem to be on the south side of the island.

I took a walking tour of old San Juan, and visited to the two Spanish forts. I walked back and forth throughout old San Juan, enjoying the scenery and the history. I also visited the cathedral of Old San Juan where De Soto is buried. It was a nice way to spend the afternoon.

When gauging relative expense, I like to compare the destination to New York (which is, I admit, expensive versus the rest of the U.S.). I noticed that gas prices were about the same as in New York (but sold in liters) and food prices were also about the same. A note on the food – it was fabulous! I would suggest that you eat some of the island cuisine. I actually went on a brief red-bean-and-rice survey, in which I ate them every night at different restaurants. Every restaurant had excellent red-beans-and-rice, but my favorite was at Pikayo restaurant which is located within the Puerto Rico Arts Museum.

When speaking with a friend while traveling in Puerto Rico last week (a review to come shortly), I realized that Juliana and I have been to several different Caribbean or Central American destinations. I was doing a brief, informal “comparison” of these destinations with my friend, so I thought I’d try to do one more formally. What I have decided to do is a brief summary, some economic comparisons and local population “happy” meter, based on MY impressions and interactions with the local population.

Here we go…

Bahamas

Summary:
I have only spent a day on Paradise Island, touring The Atlantis resort property. I have to say, The Atlantis itself is quite impressive and probably worth looking into staying there. It looks appropriate both for romance between partners and fun for the kids.

Deals:

Local Currency: Bahamian Dollar (BSD)
Strength vs. US Dollar (as of 2/26/2009): Even (1 USD =1 BSD)
Happy Meter:  45%
GDP per Capita (recent estimate): $29,900
Unemployment Rate (most recent estimate): 6.9%

Barbados

Summary:
Lush and beautiful, the mountainous island of Barbados has stellar beaches and beautiful weather. We spent our actual honeymoon on Barbados after Hurricane Hugo destroyed St. John (where we were planning on going, but have yet to go to). With Barbados it’s best to stay on the beach and in your resort or go on a guided tour. The road maps of the island are poorly documented and the drivers dangerous.

Local Currency: Barbadian Dollar BBD)
Strength vs. US Dollar (as of 2/26/2009): Weak (1 USD = 2 BBD)
Happy Meter:  21%
GDP per Capita (recent estimate): $20,200
Unemployment Rate (most recent estimate): 10.7%

Belize

Summary:
Belize is wonderful once you get out of the capital of Belize City. There is a rain forest with Mayan ruins in the interior and the largest barrier reef in the Northern Hemisphere on the coast. Although quite poor, the people are extremely friendly. The official language is English.

Deals:

Local Currency: Belize Dollar BZD)
Strength vs. US Dollar (as of 2/26/2009): Weak (1 USD = 1.95 BZD)
Happy Meter:  65%
GDP per Capita (recent estimate): $8,500
Unemployment Rate (most recent estimate): 8.5%

Bermuda

Summary:
Bermuda is an overseas territory of the United Kingdom (UK), so it has a very British feel to it. The downside of this is that the food is British as well, not spicy Caribbean food that I like so much. The island itself is colorful and beautiful. There are only 66,000 residents of the island, but the island is very small. It is not really “Caribbean,” since it is north of the Caribbean. It is relatively expensive versus other islands, but it is a short flight from New York.

Deals:

Local Currency: Bermudian Dollar (BMD)
Strength vs. US Dollar (as of 2/26/2009): Even (1 USD = 1 BMD)
Happy Meter:  75%
GDP per Capita (recent estimate): $69,900
Unemployment Rate (most recent estimate): 2.1%

Cayman Islands

Summary:
Like Bermuda, the Cayman Islands are an overseas territory of the UK. Unlike Bermuda, however, the Cayman Islands are nested in the heart of the Caribbean, just south of Cuba. The weather is fantastic and the famous “seven-mile beach” on Grand Cayman is break-taking and beautiful. Since it is a coral island, the ocean is crystal clear and great for diving activities.

Deals:

Local Currency: Cayman Island Dollar (KYD)
Strength vs. US Dollar (as of 2/26/2009): Strong (1 USD = 0.84 KYD)
Happy Meter:  80%
GDP per Capita (recent estimate): $43,800
Unemployment Rate (most recent estimate): 4.4%

Jamaica

Summary:
Jamaica is a lush island, especially in the interior. There are several hotels that cater to romantic (even decadent) vacations. Two areas of the island that are worth visiting are Ochos Rios and Negril. The poverty on the island is pretty severe and, the last time we went, we are essentially in compound, shielded from the local population.

Deals:

Local Currency: Jamaican Dollar (JMD)
Strength vs. US Dollar (as of 2/26/2009): Strong (1 USD = 0.88 JMD)
Happy Meter:  15%
GDP per Capita (recent estimate): $7,700
Unemployment Rate (most recent estimate): 10.1%

Mexico

Summary:
Mexico is a big country and much of your experience will depend on where you go. I have never been to Cancun, but I hear it is nice, albeit very touristy. The Baja peninsula is nice as well, especially Cabo St. Lucas. We went to Puerto Vallarta and had a great time. I have heard that crime is a problem in Mexico, but we didn’t experience anything like that.

Deals:

Local Currency: Mexico Peso (MXN)
Strength vs. US Dollar (as of 2/26/2009): Very Weak (1 USD = 14.97 MXN)
Happy Meter:  40%
GDP per Capita (recent estimate): $14,400
Unemployment Rate (most recent estimate): 4.1% (with perhaps 25% underemployment)

Puerto Rico

Summary:
Puerto Rico is an overseas territory of the United States, so if you are coming from the U.S., you don’t even need a passport to visit the island. Also, they use U. S. dollars and no exchange is necessary. I enjoyed the island. There are some poverty-stricken areas of the island, especially around San Juan, but there are also some nice hotels, clubs and restaurants. I found the food in Puerto Rico to be some of the best I have found anywhere in the Caribbean (even Jamaica).

Deals:

Local Currency: US Dollar
Strength vs. US Dollar (as of 2/26/2009): Even
Happy Meter:  65%
GDP per Capita (recent estimate): Unknown
Unemployment Rate (most recent estimate): Unknown

St. Lucia

Summary:
St. Lucia is a beautiful, mountainous island near Venezuela. Because it is so close to the equator, wear sunscreen! The sun is extremely powerful. There are a number of romantic resorts on St. Lucia, including Sandals, Jalousie, Ladera and (a new one) Jade Mountain. I found that there was a “split” in attitudes of the local population – friendly and happy in the North, unfriendly and unhappy in the South. Also, don’t try and drive between Castries and Soufriere like we did – it’s right-hand drive on some of the windiest roads I have even driven on.

Deals:

Local Currency: Eastern Caribbean Dollar (XCD)
Strength vs. US Dollar (as of 2/26/2009): Slightly Weak (1 USD = 2.67 XCD)
Happy Meter:  50%
GDP per Capita (recent estimate): $11,300
Unemployment Rate (most recent estimate): 20%

St. Marten

Summary:
St. Marten is divided into a Dutch-controlled area and a French controlled area. Frankly, I found the French side to have better food and beaches. We found a sheltered bay on the French side that our kids could swim in, protected from the rough waves. Unfortunately, Saint Marten is rather expensive because they use euros. Of course, there airport is named Princess Juliana International Airport, which delighted my wife, Juliana.

Local Currency: St. Marten Euro (EUR)
Strength vs. US Dollar (as of 2/26/2009): Strong (1 USD = 0.78 EUR)
Happy Meter:  55%
GDP per Capita (recent estimate): Unknown
Unemployment Rate (most recent estimate): Unknown

Hotel Del Coronado

In February, I stayed at the Hotel Del Coronado near San Diego California. Like the Jekyll Island Club, the Hotel Del (as it is called by the locals) is a historic landmark and worthy of the robber baron lifestyle. The hotel has been visited by ten U.S. presidents and numerous luminaries over the years including Marilyn Monroe, Charles Lindbergh, Babe Ruth and Charlie Chaplin. The Hotel Del also sports a colorful history including the ghost of Kate Morgan, who, according to Hotel Del legend, checked into the hotel on November 25, 1892 and never checked out. Interestingly, November 25th is our anniversary.

I stayed in an older room in the main building. It was nicely appointed with a high ceiling and a comfy bed. The bathroom was missing something important though – a bathtub – it only had a shower stall. The hallways of the Hotel Del have settled with age and are crooked, which is expected in a building over 100 years old. The Hotel Del has added Ocean Towers and California Cabanas down on the beach and adjacent to the main Victorian style building. The best thing about my stay was the weather, seventy degrees and sunny, while it was about five degrees and snowing back at home in New York.

The Hotel Del also has a full-service spa, although I didn’t take any treatments. The restaurants are wonderful, but pricey. In fact, the Hotel Del is quite pricey in general. I had to pay a “resort fee” (I think it was $29 per day, but I can’t remember exactly).

I was able to arrange a boat tour of the San Diego bay and it was quite interesting and informative.

The Hotel Del is situated on Coronado Island southwest of San Diego proper. The island itself is a very upscale community with the median house price above $1 million. It’s nice to walk around the island and see this beautiful community.

Inn at Blackberry Farm

When our travel agent told us that we just HAD to go to the Inn at Blackberry Farm, we were skeptical. A Relais & Chateaux resort near Knoxville Tennessee? It just did not seem possible.

But it is. The Inn at Blackberry Farm is one of the most deluxe and comfortable destinations for true permanent honeymooners. When we visited, it was one of the only Relais & Chateaux (the European Hotel Association that rates super luxury hotels worldwide) resorts in the United States. And it is well deserving of this nod.

The Inn is located on a large (2,500 acre, according to their website) rural property in Walland, Tennessee. With rolling hills and mountain views, the Inn is a wonderful place to escapes from the everyday grind. Guests are encouraged to stroll around the property, which boasts beautiful lake, a wedding chapel, rocking chairs with views and bike and horseback riding with arrangements. The property is now home to a Spa and an excellent restaurant. Activities include relaxing (of course), a cooking school, hiking and other outdoor activities. The Inn was once in a dry county, but it seems that that law has been rescinded, since they now boast a large wine cellar.

We stayed in one of the Estate Rooms, which was nestled into the eaves of the one of the two main houses on the property. They also have cottage rooms and, if you want to take the family, a full three-bedroom house for rent. All of the accommodations have an ample supply snacks and non-alcoholic drinks. Our room shared a large common room with the others in the cottage — which initially we thought of as a bother, but it turned out fine. At night, we sat by the huge fireplace, played board games and read. All in all, an incredibly tranquil getaway.

The Jekyll Island Club

The names include J.P. Morgan, Vanderbilt, Rockefeller and Pulitzer… these families got together in 1886 and founded a hunting club on the Georgia’s faraway Jekyll Island. This club is the Jekyll Island Club, on of the most prominent resorts on the barrier islands around Georgia and South Carolina. In the late 1800’s the club was an exclusive retreat for the nation’s most moneyed families. It was home to one of the nation’s first transcontinental phone calls, the richest of bankers and industrialists and can taut guests including presidents and senators.

In 1986, the club was renovated and became a hotel and resort. The resort now has 157 rooms in three buildings, a grand dining room, a lending library and numerous indoor and outdoor activities year-round.

When we went to the Jekyll Island club, we stayed in the Annex building rather than the main building (the Club itself). The club boasts beautiful Victorian architecture including a huge flag-crested turret. In the Annex we had arguably the world’s largest whirlpool bath – it was at least six feet across and was ours exclusively. We also had a fireplace; however, as Juliana and I liked to joke long afterwards, “due to the historic nature of the property”, the attendant had to maintain the fire. The stay of course included many calls to the attendant to stoke the fire.

The property itself is exquisite. Close to area beaches, the resort offers many packages including winter and summer packages, family getaways, a culinary school and golfing vacations. For a weekend away from the grind, the Jekyll Island club provides millionaire surrounding to the rest of us.

Villia La Massa

On the banks of the Arno River, Villa la Massa offers luxury that seems a world away from the city. Seems a world away, but the resort is actually on a few miles from the center of Florence. As one of the Leading Hotels of the World, this resort offers a country experience in the midst of one of Europe’s most romantic cities. Situated in the rolling Tuscan hills, the hotel offers beautiful views of the Arno and the surrounding villages. The villa dates back to the age of the Medici (16th century) and was turned into a hotel in 1948. The hotel has 37 guest rooms all recently redone in a elegant Tuscan style.

The dining experience is wonderful, with local dishes and regional specialties. They also have an extensive wine list.

The villa is surrounded by a peach and olive orchard and offers nice, relaxing walks through the property. The property also has a heated swimming pool.

When we went to Villa la Massa, we were supposed to stay in Venice for another two days, but decided to move on to Florence earlier because of the bad weather and service in Venice. Villa la Massa was an excellent choice. We spent an extra two days there, with sun reflecting off the winding river and peace and quiet. Even though it is close to the city center (and therefore close to the museums and sites of Florence), it seems like it is out in the Tuscan countryside. The pool was not open when we were there, because it is only open in the summer months. Although we didn’t have the kids with us, the Villa offers many opportunities for kids including nearby horseback riding, the pool and baby-sitting services.

The Villa is rather pricey, it is well worth the expense. For a relaxing time close to Florence, Villa la Massa is a great choice.

The Pitons in St. Lucia

I have found paradise! Its name is Jalousie! In my travels so far I have found no getaway to compare. Jalousie is a fairly new resort created by Hilton hotels on the island of St. Lucia, in the West Indies. Now before I describe this heaven on earth I must let you know it does not come cheap. No, it’s pricey, but worth it.

The resort sits on what must be described as the best parcel of real estate on this already stunning island. Nestled between the twin “pitons”, mountains that rise directly from the ocean to a height of 4000 feet or so, on a quiet cove, Hilton has procured 400 acres of lush tropical land. The great house, modeled after an old sugar plantation houses the restaurants, a ballroom, and a conference room. Down the expansive lawn from the great house is the huge pool just steps from a white sandy beach, with restaurant/bar pavilion. The beach features thatched umbrellas to shade you from the strong St. Lucian sun. You can choose to swim in the soft Caribbean bay or the pool with the effort of a few steps. Or if you don’t feel like getting up at all you can have you lunch and drinks delivered to you at your seat. For those really active, there is a small water sports pavilion where you may indulge in sunfish sail boats, water-skiing, snorkeling and day and half day boat trips to other areas of the island. Also just a short ride from the resort is the islands volcano where you can view an impressive smoking crater. There are also trips to the regenerative sulfur springs and a gorgeous botanical garden filled with indigenous plants and cooling waterfalls.

Whether you choose to fill your day doing nothing or scouting the area an even bigger treat awaits you back at your “room”. Each accommodation is in a cottage complete with comfy beds with mosquito netting (not that you need it), terraces and your own plunge pool. The cottages come with an ocean view or a view of the amazing pitons. The rooms are set away from the great house up in the plush tropical hills and you are ferried around by small vans on demand, to the beach, great house, etc. The resort boasts several restaurants, one very upscale with good local and continental fare and one beach side, where the food is somewhat less than exemplary. Room service is 24 hours, a lovely perk for those late night munchies. I found the room service food far superior to the beach side restaurant.

This is not a place to dance ’til dawn, unless of course it is just you and your significant other. Most of the resort closes down by around nine and nighttime entertainment consists mainly of a game of pool or chess on the resorts huge outside chessboard. However as I said the booze and food can continue to come all night long with room service.

The resort also boasts a full service spa, offering massage, facials, scrubs, etc. and the service in the spa is impeccable, something I don’t often say of spas. The treatments I got at the Jalousie spa rival the ones I have gotten anywhere.

The staff is friendly and attentive, something often lacking unfortunately. Jalousie is the place to go if you want peace and quiet, unobtrusive service and the ultimate in pampering and despite the sticker shock, worth every penny.

Castle on the Hudson - Tarrytown, NY

And now for somewhere closer to home – because you can’t always jet off to someplace far, far away. One of our favorite places for a weekend or just a quick overnight from the kids is the Castle on the Hudson. Aptly named, it is indeed a Castle on the Hudson. It sits high on a hill top and commands amazing views of the Hudson River valley. The older structure of the castle is medieval in style with Gothic windows and imposing turrets. The main building comes highly recommended for those who crave the kingly or queenly treatment. The suites in the main building are luxury at its finest. All are individually decorated and feature fireplaces and views of the river. These oversized suites command spaces of 700-900 square feet. All feature period antiques, marble bathrooms, TV, VCR, stereo, room service and turndown service. If advance notice is given, spa services are also available in room. The restaurant, Equus, features French-American cuisine, although if you have a hearty appetite you might choose another Tarrytown restaurant – Equus’ portions are small and focus more on presentation than anything else. The bar is cozy and a nice place to curl up with a before or after drink or tea. The decor throughout the hotel is impeccable creating a feeling, if only for the moment, that you are part of royal society (hey, it’s fun to play sometimes)

Outside, the castle is incomparable. The lawns and gardens are a sight to behold in spring, summer, and fall. The castle also features an outdoor pool (too cold for my tastes until about August), a whirlpool and a poolside bar. Also featured are a tennis court, jogging path and a Bocci court.

The hotel also has an annex building with which I have no experience, although I’m sure it is just as deluxe as the original castle. However, when given the choice to be treated like a queen, I will choose the tower anytime.

Greystone Inn, Lake Toxaway, NC

It isn’t cheap and it isn’t easy to come by, but it’s well worth it. “It” is the Greystone Inn in Lake Toxaway, North Carolina.

About 50 miles Southwest of Asheville, NC and tucked into the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, the Greystone Inn is a romantic getaway for the passionate and sophisticated couple. Built in 1915 on the banks of Lake Toxaway, the main house boasts nineteen guest rooms with antiques and lavish appointments. The owners of the Inn have opened two annex buildings, the 12-room Hillmont annex and the more family-oriented Lakeside suites. When we stayed, we were in the Hillmont building with a room that had a balcony right on top of the lake. Even though it rained most of the time we were there, it didn’t matter. We spent plenty of time by the fire in the large, cathedral-ceilinged room, listening to the rain patter on the surface of the lake. It was serenity itself.

The Inn offers golf, boating, hiking, swimming and tennis. The Inn also has a spa that offers numerous indulgences: massage, facials, foot reflexology, yoga, yoga massage, pedicures and manicures. You can also get a special package that combines spa treatments with other activities.

The dining experience is splendid. I think I had the best rainbow trout meal ever. The restaurant really provides a nice blend of southern fare and gourmet dishes.

The Greystone Inn is absolutely exquisite and is a “must-go” – if only for a weekend getaway. However, most of the weekends are booked, so make reservations early.

The 1842 Inn - Macon Georgia

Although we had often heard of the 1842 Inn as being romantic and comfortable, my first thought was, “Macon? Yuck. Hot, sticky, yuck.” Macon had always been to me a place to have fast food and get gas on the way from Atlanta to Savannah or Florida, never a place to actually go and stay, never a destination. Well, I was wrong. I admit it. As soon as you venture two blocks from the main drag around I-75, Macon’s historic district beings and it is beautiful, with old Victorian houses and beautiful lanes. I suppose these were the in town residences of cotton merchants and traders, who knows, but it was certainly not what I expected to find in Macon.

The 1842 Inn sits high on a hill above the historic district with a huge front porch for sitting and watching the day (and unfortunately, traffic) goes by. I was told by the former owner of the Inn (who now owes the Foley House in Savannah), that he was pumping gas in Macon (see what I mean about a place to get gas?) and saw the house on the hill and arranged to buy it right away. I can certainly see why. Built in the classic Greek Revival style, the 1842 Inn looks like you would imagine a grand Georgian building would look – like Tara from Gone with the Wind. The Inn boasts huge columns on the front and around the side and is very impressive. It was given a four diamond award by AAA, which is rather prestigious and rare. It is certainly what you would expect to find in an old Georgian Inn (rather than, say, an English Country Inn) – that is, full of Southern hospitality.

The rooms are named for famous people in Georgia History (with a few famous Georgian flora thrown in, like Magnolias). We stayed in the Desoto Room, named for Spanish Explorer Hernado Desoto. It boasts a big canopy bed, high ceilings and a ceiling fan. The bath is rather blah, no whirlpool. The room is intimate and rather small. I think if we go back, we will try the Overlook Room, which has beautiful views and a slanted ceilings (since it is located at the top of the Inn, under the roof). There is an extrodinarily romantic feel in that room, as if you have your own nest, away from the outside world.

The 1842 Inn features a wonderful courtyard between the Main Inn and the second building in the rear of the property. It is rather large and sunny, with views of nearby church steeples. We found it a wonderful place to relax in the sun and talk. It is very relaxing and tranquil.

The common areas are formal, appointed with antiques and boasting a large fireplace. We had tasty snacks and a glass of wine in the afternoon. The staff recommended a local restaurant, called Michael’s. When we arrived for dinner, there wasn’t much romantic ambiance, but the food was terrific!

I guess I was wrong about Macon and you can’t go wrong at the 1842 Inn. It is a lovely destination.

A final note, the 1842 Inn’s website offers an interesting history of the property.