Permanent Honeymoon

When speaking with a friend while traveling in Puerto Rico last week (a review to come shortly), I realized that Juliana and I have been to several different Caribbean or Central American destinations. I was doing a brief, informal “comparison” of these destinations with my friend, so I thought I’d try to do one more formally. What I have decided to do is a brief summary, some economic comparisons and local population “happy” meter, based on MY impressions and interactions with the local population.

Here we go…

Bahamas

Summary:
I have only spent a day on Paradise Island, touring The Atlantis resort property. I have to say, The Atlantis itself is quite impressive and probably worth looking into staying there. It looks appropriate both for romance between partners and fun for the kids.

Deals:

Local Currency: Bahamian Dollar (BSD)
Strength vs. US Dollar (as of 2/26/2009): Even (1 USD =1 BSD)
Happy Meter:  45%
GDP per Capita (recent estimate): $29,900
Unemployment Rate (most recent estimate): 6.9%

Barbados

Summary:
Lush and beautiful, the mountainous island of Barbados has stellar beaches and beautiful weather. We spent our actual honeymoon on Barbados after Hurricane Hugo destroyed St. John (where we were planning on going, but have yet to go to). With Barbados it’s best to stay on the beach and in your resort or go on a guided tour. The road maps of the island are poorly documented and the drivers dangerous.

Local Currency: Barbadian Dollar BBD)
Strength vs. US Dollar (as of 2/26/2009): Weak (1 USD = 2 BBD)
Happy Meter:  21%
GDP per Capita (recent estimate): $20,200
Unemployment Rate (most recent estimate): 10.7%

Belize

Summary:
Belize is wonderful once you get out of the capital of Belize City. There is a rain forest with Mayan ruins in the interior and the largest barrier reef in the Northern Hemisphere on the coast. Although quite poor, the people are extremely friendly. The official language is English.

Deals:

Local Currency: Belize Dollar BZD)
Strength vs. US Dollar (as of 2/26/2009): Weak (1 USD = 1.95 BZD)
Happy Meter:  65%
GDP per Capita (recent estimate): $8,500
Unemployment Rate (most recent estimate): 8.5%

Bermuda

Summary:
Bermuda is an overseas territory of the United Kingdom (UK), so it has a very British feel to it. The downside of this is that the food is British as well, not spicy Caribbean food that I like so much. The island itself is colorful and beautiful. There are only 66,000 residents of the island, but the island is very small. It is not really “Caribbean,” since it is north of the Caribbean. It is relatively expensive versus other islands, but it is a short flight from New York.

Deals:

Local Currency: Bermudian Dollar (BMD)
Strength vs. US Dollar (as of 2/26/2009): Even (1 USD = 1 BMD)
Happy Meter:  75%
GDP per Capita (recent estimate): $69,900
Unemployment Rate (most recent estimate): 2.1%

Cayman Islands

Summary:
Like Bermuda, the Cayman Islands are an overseas territory of the UK. Unlike Bermuda, however, the Cayman Islands are nested in the heart of the Caribbean, just south of Cuba. The weather is fantastic and the famous “seven-mile beach” on Grand Cayman is break-taking and beautiful. Since it is a coral island, the ocean is crystal clear and great for diving activities.

Deals:

Local Currency: Cayman Island Dollar (KYD)
Strength vs. US Dollar (as of 2/26/2009): Strong (1 USD = 0.84 KYD)
Happy Meter:  80%
GDP per Capita (recent estimate): $43,800
Unemployment Rate (most recent estimate): 4.4%

Jamaica

Summary:
Jamaica is a lush island, especially in the interior. There are several hotels that cater to romantic (even decadent) vacations. Two areas of the island that are worth visiting are Ochos Rios and Negril. The poverty on the island is pretty severe and, the last time we went, we are essentially in compound, shielded from the local population.

Deals:

Local Currency: Jamaican Dollar (JMD)
Strength vs. US Dollar (as of 2/26/2009): Strong (1 USD = 0.88 JMD)
Happy Meter:  15%
GDP per Capita (recent estimate): $7,700
Unemployment Rate (most recent estimate): 10.1%

Mexico

Summary:
Mexico is a big country and much of your experience will depend on where you go. I have never been to Cancun, but I hear it is nice, albeit very touristy. The Baja peninsula is nice as well, especially Cabo St. Lucas. We went to Puerto Vallarta and had a great time. I have heard that crime is a problem in Mexico, but we didn’t experience anything like that.

Deals:

Local Currency: Mexico Peso (MXN)
Strength vs. US Dollar (as of 2/26/2009): Very Weak (1 USD = 14.97 MXN)
Happy Meter:  40%
GDP per Capita (recent estimate): $14,400
Unemployment Rate (most recent estimate): 4.1% (with perhaps 25% underemployment)

Puerto Rico

Summary:
Puerto Rico is an overseas territory of the United States, so if you are coming from the U.S., you don’t even need a passport to visit the island. Also, they use U. S. dollars and no exchange is necessary. I enjoyed the island. There are some poverty-stricken areas of the island, especially around San Juan, but there are also some nice hotels, clubs and restaurants. I found the food in Puerto Rico to be some of the best I have found anywhere in the Caribbean (even Jamaica).

Deals:

Local Currency: US Dollar
Strength vs. US Dollar (as of 2/26/2009): Even
Happy Meter:  65%
GDP per Capita (recent estimate): Unknown
Unemployment Rate (most recent estimate): Unknown

St. Lucia

Summary:
St. Lucia is a beautiful, mountainous island near Venezuela. Because it is so close to the equator, wear sunscreen! The sun is extremely powerful. There are a number of romantic resorts on St. Lucia, including Sandals, Jalousie, Ladera and (a new one) Jade Mountain. I found that there was a “split” in attitudes of the local population – friendly and happy in the North, unfriendly and unhappy in the South. Also, don’t try and drive between Castries and Soufriere like we did – it’s right-hand drive on some of the windiest roads I have even driven on.

Deals:

Local Currency: Eastern Caribbean Dollar (XCD)
Strength vs. US Dollar (as of 2/26/2009): Slightly Weak (1 USD = 2.67 XCD)
Happy Meter:  50%
GDP per Capita (recent estimate): $11,300
Unemployment Rate (most recent estimate): 20%

St. Marten

Summary:
St. Marten is divided into a Dutch-controlled area and a French controlled area. Frankly, I found the French side to have better food and beaches. We found a sheltered bay on the French side that our kids could swim in, protected from the rough waves. Unfortunately, Saint Marten is rather expensive because they use euros. Of course, there airport is named Princess Juliana International Airport, which delighted my wife, Juliana.

Local Currency: St. Marten Euro (EUR)
Strength vs. US Dollar (as of 2/26/2009): Strong (1 USD = 0.78 EUR)
Happy Meter:  55%
GDP per Capita (recent estimate): Unknown
Unemployment Rate (most recent estimate): Unknown

Just the word emanates luxury: villa. Often, travelers don’t consider the option of renting a villa: it is usually considered too expensive or the travel agent does not provide the villa option. For an extended stay or for a vacation with a large group of people, a villa is the best choice. Villas provide luxury accommodations and a long-term home base from which to enjoy your vacation. Most villas have more than one bedroom, so if you are traveling with a large family, or with a group of friends or other couples, villas can be cost-effective versus a traditional hotel or resort.

While the idea of renting a villa can conjure up the beautiful scenes of “Under the Tuscan Sun”, if you choose a villa over an all-inclusive resort, there are some additional considerations.

The first is transportation. You need to consider how you are going to get from the airport to the villa and, additionally, how you are going to get around for the entire stay. Hotels usually offer shuttle or bus service, the villa will not. Renting a car is a common choice, but it comes with some additional considerations – such as what side of the road you must drive on, how safe are the roads, etc.

The next concern is food. An all-inclusive resort will provide you with everything you need to eat and drink, but, in a villa, you are usually on your own. Most villa managers and owners provide a cook who will shop for you and prepare meals. The cook will usually prepare two meals of your choice a day (that is, breakfast/lunch or lunch/dinner). The best part is that the cook can provide you with a taste of the local flavor. Make sure you prepare a shopping list that will include what you will eat – sometimes the “local flavor” is not appetizing to travelers, particularly kids. And remember: there is no room service in a villa. Stock your refrigerator and pantry such that you can have a snack at midnight if you want it.

You should also budget for tips. In addition to the cook, a villa will usually have at least a manager and a maid. The manager can help you with local attractions and answer any additional questions or concerns that arise. Generally, the maid will clean on the weekdays. Each of these people will expect gratuities. Get a guide from the owner of the villa on the rate for tips. Typically, it is a number of U.S. dollars (or Euros, or local currency) per guest per day.

Villa Serendipity – St. Lucia, West Indies

When we saw pictures of this villa on the Internet, we thought – a small, quaint bungalow. When we arrived at Villa Serendipity, we saw how wrong we were. Villa Serendipity is more like a sugar baron’s palace than a bungalow. Perched in the hills above Castries, the St. Lucian capital, the villa is extraordinarily appointed and boasts three bedrooms and a private pool. The pool seems to disappear into the western horizon and provides a fantastic place to repose as the sun goes down over the Caribbean Sea. In fact, the view of the ocean and the city of Castries is most stunning and worth the trip.

The pool itself is surrounded by lush flora including fruit trees in which fruit bats live which, at night, swoop down and drink out of the pool.

The villa provides a wonderful launching pad to visit the rest of St. Lucia where you can enjoy the nightlife of Castries, enjoy water sports and tour several interesting and historical sites on the island. Villa Serendipity is not right on the beach, but a short drive will get you there.

Since Villa Serendipity is on the North side of the island, near Castries, visits to the South, where the Pitons and the volcano are, will require you to either brave the hairpin turns through the mountains if you drive or to take a helicopter or boat ride. We drove, but we recommend the helicopter, particularly if you get carsick.

Villa Serendipity has a high season from December 15 to April 14 and a low season from April 15 to December 14. The price of the villa is about forty percent more in the high season.

Villa Karaway – Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

Villa Karaway actually provides you with the best of both worlds: a private villa atmosphere and some hotel-like services. While Villa Karaway is a private villa, it is also connected to the Los Palmares condominium complex, which provides guests of Villa Karaway with access to the large pool, kids pool, Jacuzzi, restaurant and game room. Los Palmares also provides twenty-four hour security for Villa Karaway.

Villa Karaway is literally right on the ocean and boasts a private plunge pool to help you cool down. After all, Mexico is hot. There are 4 bedrooms called del Mar (the Sea), El Nubes (the Clouds), El Sol (The Sun) and Cielo (Heaven). Villa Karaway is quite comfortable for groups up to twelve. It is ideal for large groups or families. Cielo, the master bedroom is a dream with a plush king-sized bed, a private bathroom and a patio that overlooks Mexico’s largest bay.

Villa Karaway provides a manager, a cook and a maid. You might want to brush up on your Spanish as Adela (the cook) and Gloria (the maid) do not speak much English. They are all friendly and provide superior service.

There are three seasons at Villa Karaway: off season (May – October), Prime Season (November – April) and Holiday Season (Christmas and New Years).

Villa Karaway is located just south of Puerto Vallarta proper, a short drive from the airport and with easy access to the town. When we went, the first five days were absolutely stunning, with the sunny weather and amazing sunsets over the Pacific Ocean. Unfortunately, we then lived through the first Western hurricane in sixty-five years. Fortunately, Villa Karaway stood up to the 140 mph winds famously, and our kids just considered the whole thing part of the adventure.

Three words remote, remote, remote. If you really want to get away from it all, this is the place. But it takes travel, and if you don’t like little prop planes, bring a handful of Xanax (as I did) or forget it! You arrive at the international airport on a big jet (OK, no problem) however then you board a tiny prop (we’re talking a 6 seater here) which flies you to the “city” of Dangriga. Don’t get me wrong the flight was perfect, these guys do it all day long, but it was the thought of one propeller keeping the plane airborne that spooked me. The Dangriga “airport” is literally a swath cut out of the coastal bush, a wind sock and a shack. This is the third world make no mistake. We were met promptly by an employee of Jaguar Reef who took us on a 40 minute odyssey on the dirt “highways” of Belize. The ride was bumpy but made quite pleasant by the stories our driver told us. Belize is very poor, although you would never know it from the attitude of the Belizean people. Some might be shocked by the shacks and the seeming abject poverty these people live in, but one experiences no rancor from the locals – and no, I’m not on a “happy native” kick – it’s only that I have been places where this sort of hospitality did not exist.

Upon arrival at the club we were stunned by the beauty of the place. Landscaped amongst the sand are beds of tropical flowers. The roofs of the cabanas and the main house are thatched as is the Belizean custom. The few cottages are clustered around the main house in a semicircle. You are greeted and checked in with great expediency (they know you are coming). We did not actually stay on the resort property but in the Na Balum beach house about a 5 minute walk down the beach. We stopped at the bar to pick up the requisite rum punch (this is still after all the Caribbean) and wandered out onto the small open air dining room. About 15 simple tables all afford a glorious view of the Caribbean Sea. We checked out the swimming pool (small but functional) and then wandered down to the beach here they have beach chairs shaded by palms from the burning sun and double hammocks to while the day away. We then made our way down the beach to Na Balum – what a perfect spot.

The house has two rental levels, we had the bottom, with a living room equipped with a futon couch, a full kitchen with bottled water, simple bathroom and a bedroom with a double bed, alarm clock (as if you’d need it!) and a sliding glass door that opens to the sea. Since there is virtually no crime in Belize we slept with that door open every night, lulled to sleep by the sound of the lapping waves. Just in between Na Balum and the Jaguar Reef is a tiny inn with 4 rooms run by Canadian ex-pats. I recommend taking most of your meals there as the food is far tastier and cheaper than at the lodge – their pizza is to die for. We did take several meals at the lodge and they were fairly ordinary, with a few Belizean dishes thrown in – nothing to write home about, although the service is perfect. (more…)