A Taste of the Old World

Castle on the Hudson - Tarrytown, NY

Castle on the Hudson - Tarrytown, NY

And now for somewhere closer to home – because you can’t always jet off to someplace far, far away. One of our favorite places for a weekend or just a quick overnight from the kids is the Castle on the Hudson. Aptly named, it is indeed a Castle on the Hudson. It sits high on a hill top and commands amazing views of the Hudson River valley. The older structure of the castle is medieval in style with Gothic windows and imposing turrets. The main building comes highly recommended for those who crave the kingly or queenly treatment. The suites in the main building are luxury at its finest. All are individually decorated and feature fireplaces and views of the river. These oversized suites command spaces of 700-900 square feet. All feature period antiques, marble bathrooms, TV, VCR, stereo, room service and turndown service. If advance notice is given, spa services are also available in room. The restaurant, Equus, features French-American cuisine, although if you have a hearty appetite you might choose another Tarrytown restaurant – Equus’ portions are small and focus more on presentation than anything else. The bar is cozy and a nice place to curl up with a before or after drink or tea. The decor throughout the hotel is impeccable creating a feeling, if only for the moment, that you are part of royal society (hey, it’s fun to play sometimes)

Outside, the castle is incomparable. The lawns and gardens are a sight to behold in spring, summer, and fall. The castle also features an outdoor pool (too cold for my tastes until about August), a whirlpool and a poolside bar. Also featured are a tennis court, jogging path and a Bocci court.

The hotel also has an annex building with which I have no experience, although I’m sure it is just as deluxe as the original castle. However, when given the choice to be treated like a queen, I will choose the tower anytime.

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Peace in the North Carolina Mountains

Greystone Inn, Lake Toxaway, NC

Greystone Inn, Lake Toxaway, NC

It isn’t cheap and it isn’t easy to come by, but it’s well worth it. “It” is the Greystone Inn in Lake Toxaway, North Carolina.

About 50 miles Southwest of Asheville, NC and tucked into the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, the Greystone Inn is a romantic getaway for the passionate and sophisticated couple. Built in 1915 on the banks of Lake Toxaway, the main house boasts nineteen guest rooms with antiques and lavish appointments. The owners of the Inn have opened two annex buildings, the 12-room Hillmont annex and the more family-oriented Lakeside suites. When we stayed, we were in the Hillmont building with a room that had a balcony right on top of the lake. Even though it rained most of the time we were there, it didn’t matter. We spent plenty of time by the fire in the large, cathedral-ceilinged room, listening to the rain patter on the surface of the lake. It was serenity itself.

The Inn offers golf, boating, hiking, swimming and tennis. The Inn also has a spa that offers numerous indulgences: massage, facials, foot reflexology, yoga, yoga massage, pedicures and manicures. You can also get a special package that combines spa treatments with other activities.

The dining experience is splendid. I think I had the best rainbow trout meal ever. The restaurant really provides a nice blend of southern fare and gourmet dishes.

The Greystone Inn is absolutely exquisite and is a “must-go” – if only for a weekend getaway. However, most of the weekends are booked, so make reservations early.

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Old World Elegance

Hotel Imperial - Vienna, Austria Europe

Hotel Imperial - Vienna, Austria Europe

When we went to Vienna to visit Juliana’s cousin, we were booked at the Hotel Bristol in the center of the city. But we really wanted to be at the Hotel Imperial. The Hotel Imperial is world-renowned as an elegant and luxurious destination for visitors to the city of Beethoven and Freud. As we checked in at the Bristol, we immediately knew that there was a problem. At the registration desk, the attendant and the manager stepped into the back and began an intense discussion in German. It seems that they didn’t have our reservation at the Bristol. Bad news.

The good news, however, was that they decided to book us in a suite at their sister hotel – the Hotel Imperial. We were thrilled. Unfortunately, when we got to the “suite” we found it was a simple room with an alcove closet and a large bathroom. Not our definition of a “suite” for sure. Oh well. So, Juliana decided to take a shower after our short, crowded flight from Florence to Vienna. While she was in the shower, a maid came through the wall – literally. She apologized, but told me in her marginal English that she had to open the “salon” for us. So, she opened the door on the wall opposite the bed and I discovered that the salon was more like a ballroom. Thirty feet by fifteen feet with twenty-foot ceilings, the salon was unbelievable. With antique paintings of Austrian royalty, the salon completed our suite. I called to Juliana, “I’ll be in the salon!”

Needless to say, the Hotel Imperial was impeccable. We had a wonderful time there, but didn’t eat in the restaurant because of dinner plans with Juliana’s cousin. The Hotel Imperial is located on Ring Zero of Vienna – actually the very center of town. After a day in our “suite” we had to vacate the second morning to make room for the leader of an African nation (really, it’s true). The Hotel Imperial is everything we hoped it would be and we thank the management of the Bristol for making room (and lots of it) at the Imperial.

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When the Land of Love becomes the Land of Family Fun

Caesars Brookdale Resort

Caesars Brookdale Resort

If Vegas can do it, so can Caesar’s Poconos Resorts. Do what? Make an essentially grown-up experience more kid friendly. Caesar’s, a perennial honeymoon and love-nest destination for the mid-American set, launched Brookdale to convert a vacation spent mostly indoors with you lover to one that is mostly outdoors with your kids.

Brookdale offers tons of activities to entertain the little ones with paddleboats, magic and animal shows, kids menus, a kids club, an indoor pool and over 250 acres of wooded paths and much more. Brookdale is situated on a large private lake and surrounded by panoramic views of the Pennsylvania countryside. On the lake, you can try paddleboats, sailboats and canoes. You can also try fishing, miniature golf or tennis.

One of the best features of the resort is the indoor pool and exercise facility. The pool is large and heated and a treat. Brookdale also has an arcade, indoor miniature golf and, in the winter, an ice rink. The “Applause” theater provides many kid and, at night, grown-up entertainment shows. Our kids particularly liked the magic show and the animal show.

As much fun as Brookdale can be for kids, don’t expect luxurious accommodations. We stayed in two separate family rooms: one a simple hotel-like room with a sunken pit for television viewing and one “alpine cabin”. Both were passable, but generally musty and crowded. The beds are uncomfortable and the appointments cheap. Also, to buy additional items – such as drinks, snacks, etc. – the resort requires you to put down a deposit to do so – basically you have to pay in advance.

So, “the land of love” becomes “the land of family fun”. Unfortunately, since much of the “land of love” is gone, Brookdale’s good for the kids, but lacking for the grown ups.

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The 1842 Inn – Macon, GA USA

The 1842 Inn - Macon Georgia

The 1842 Inn - Macon Georgia

Although we had often heard of the 1842 Inn as being romantic and comfortable, my first thought was, “Macon? Yuck. Hot, sticky, yuck.” Macon had always been to me a place to have fast food and get gas on the way from Atlanta to Savannah or Florida, never a place to actually go and stay, never a destination. Well, I was wrong. I admit it. As soon as you venture two blocks from the main drag around I-75, Macon’s historic district beings and it is beautiful, with old Victorian houses and beautiful lanes. I suppose these were the in town residences of cotton merchants and traders, who knows, but it was certainly not what I expected to find in Macon.

The 1842 Inn sits high on a hill above the historic district with a huge front porch for sitting and watching the day (and unfortunately, traffic) goes by. I was told by the former owner of the Inn (who now owes the Foley House in Savannah), that he was pumping gas in Macon (see what I mean about a place to get gas?) and saw the house on the hill and arranged to buy it right away. I can certainly see why. Built in the classic Greek Revival style, the 1842 Inn looks like you would imagine a grand Georgian building would look – like Tara from Gone with the Wind. The Inn boasts huge columns on the front and around the side and is very impressive. It was given a four diamond award by AAA, which is rather prestigious and rare. It is certainly what you would expect to find in an old Georgian Inn (rather than, say, an English Country Inn) – that is, full of Southern hospitality.

The rooms are named for famous people in Georgia History (with a few famous Georgian flora thrown in, like Magnolias). We stayed in the Desoto Room, named for Spanish Explorer Hernado Desoto. It boasts a big canopy bed, high ceilings and a ceiling fan. The bath is rather blah, no whirlpool. The room is intimate and rather small. I think if we go back, we will try the Overlook Room, which has beautiful views and a slanted ceilings (since it is located at the top of the Inn, under the roof). There is an extrodinarily romantic feel in that room, as if you have your own nest, away from the outside world.

The 1842 Inn features a wonderful courtyard between the Main Inn and the second building in the rear of the property. It is rather large and sunny, with views of nearby church steeples. We found it a wonderful place to relax in the sun and talk. It is very relaxing and tranquil.

The common areas are formal, appointed with antiques and boasting a large fireplace. We had tasty snacks and a glass of wine in the afternoon. The staff recommended a local restaurant, called Michael’s. When we arrived for dinner, there wasn’t much romantic ambiance, but the food was terrific!

I guess I was wrong about Macon and you can’t go wrong at the 1842 Inn. It is a lovely destination.

A final note, the 1842 Inn’s website offers an interesting history of the property.

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The Foley House – Savannah, GA USA

Foley House - Savannah

Foley House - Savannah

If you read my review on The Gastonian, you might wonder what is a good alternative in Savannah? The answer is The Foley House. Rated one of the ten most romantic Inns by Vacation Magazine (I would second that rating!), the Foley House is located on Chippewa Square in historic Savannah. It is managed by the man who, until recently, owned and operated the 1842 Inn in Macon, which we have visited as well. The common areas of the Foley House are quite unlike those found in other more formal Inns. I felt more like I was in the drawing room of a great British explorer than a place to take high tea. The furnishings are comfortable and arranged for reading, drinking and socializing. Wine is available by the bottle and glass and snacks are served in the evening.

One of the most amazing aspects of the Foley House is the garden. Intimate and beautiful, the garden is situated between the Main Inn and the carriage house. Tables for eating and drinking are surrounded by lush plants and beautiful fountains. While the garden is small, it is tranquil and a nice place to spend a warm Savannah evening. It was a bit cold when we were there (President’s Day), but we still spent a little while alone in the garden.

We stayed in the Essex Room, on the first floor. Usually we try to stay away from the first floor, because of foot and car traffic outside; however, the Essex room is so large (it runs from the front to the back of the Inn), we were not disturbed by the outside world. The Essex room is more formal than the parlor, appointed with French and English antiques and a gas fireplace. There is a sitting area with two chairs and a desk. The best thing about the room is the large, two-person Jacuzzi. The management provides bathing salts and two robes (like all good places should). A relaxing soak makes for a wonderful night. We always look for a Jacuzzi bath and usually recommend more highly those that have nice baths. The bed is king-sized, high and comfortable. There is also a (empty) refrigerator, so if you want to bring your own libations, do (but don’t forget the corkscrew).

Lastly, the service. The staff was highly helpful and gracious. They served us wine quickly and politely. We spoke with the owner of the Inn, who obviously has a passion for inn-keeping. All in all, the Foley House is wonderful and extremely romantic.

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The Gastonian – Savannah, GA USA

The Gastonian

The Gastonian

Located on Gaston street in downtown Savannah, The Gastionian is the place that we spent our actual wedding night. The Inn itself is rather formal and has beautiful sitting rooms and furnishings. Drinks and snacks are served in the evening in the sitting room and parlor. The Main Inn has rooms named for famous Southerns, including one named for Juliana’s great, great aunt Juliette Gordon Low. The rooms are generally large and most feature spectacular baths. In one room the bath is bigger than the bed and set in the center of the double room – perfect for lounging lazily in the tub and then sliding on over to the bed for a quick rest (or whatever).

We rented the carriage house, which is a stand alone building in the back of the Main Inn on the alley. Once used to house carriages and horses (thus the name – carriage house), it has been converted into a suite for the romantic couple. Since it separated from the Main Inn by a courtyard it offers more privacy than the Main Inn, but you don’t get a huge Jacuzzi like some of the other rooms. Instead, there’s a red tub for two. When we first visited the Gastonian, it was perfect. The carriage house has a small kitchen and breakfast area downstairs where you are served continental breakfast each morning. Upstairs is a bedroom suite with a gas fireplace, the big red tub and a small bathroom. And the bed. Well, that is problem. On our wedding night, it was the most incredible bed ever. A huge antique Chinese bed, hand carved from hickory (I think) and definitely the centerpiece to an incredible and romantic room. Unfortunately, we returned to the Gastonian several years later to relive our wedding night in the carriage house. The bed is now gone. The Inn has changed management and (I suppose) the original owners took the bed with them. The new owners have replaced the extraordinary with ordinary – a simple white iron Queen sized bed. What a disappointment. The Chinese bed and theme to the carriage house is gone. On top of that, the laundry is in the basement of the carriage house and the maids were washing clothes all the morning after. No hot water and lots of noise. So, although the Gastonian’s carriage house was once a perfect and highly romantic place to spend a night or two in historic Savannah, now it is rather ordinary and much less romantic. Too bad.

If you do decide to stay in the Gastonian, stay in the Main Inn in a room with one of the huge Jacuzzis. Until they replace the bed with one of equal drama and stop doing laundry in the morning, the carriage house is now a bust. However, I still recommend the Gastonian, just not nearly as enthusiastically.

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The Land of Love

Ceasar's Pocono Resorts

Ceasar's Pocono Resorts

Ah tackiness, we love it. If it’s cheesy and Americana – we’re there. And what better place than Caesar’s Pocono resorts? They have several but the one we visited is in the Poconos area of Pennsylvania. As you enter cove have you are greeted by a large heart shaped sign proclaiming “you are entering the land of love.” Oh yeah.

We chose the top-of-the-line “Champagne glass suite” (although I hear now the have something even more over-the-top which boggles the mind). We were checked in with great expedience, I mean after all most people who visit there just want to “get to it” – ha! The suite was like something out of Liberace’s dreams. There is one tiny window to the living area with drawn curtains so that the atmosphere in the room is always night time.

The most striking thing upon entering is the two story champagne glass whirlpool accessible from the up stairs bathroom. There is a small sofa and fireplace and a tiny television. I suppose the thought is that you will not be spending a lot of time in that room. To you left is a glass in heart shaped swimming pool and up a short flight of stairs is the piece de resistance, the bedroom. Decorated in dark reds and blacks the round bed (yes, I said round) is surrounded on all sides by mirrors. To the right of the bedroom is the bathroom with its whirlpool. What a kick! And on the lowest level is a sauna and a massage table where you may request an in room massage. This place is made for sex and lots of it. But if you do venture outside, they have several nightclubs and of all things a squash court!

The food served in the “Diana room” is decent American fare and lots of it (I guess people work up an appetite). The draw back to this restaurant is the communal tables. Call me antisocial, but I really didn’t want to sit with a bunch of other people I didn’t know. So we asked for a table alone; however, since the facility set up for communal dining, we ended up parked at something worthy of Arthur and his Knights – hardly a romantic candle-lit dinner for two. We are not the kind who go on holiday to hang with other people – generally we just want to be alone, maybe this set up may suit others.

There is plenty to do in The Poconos, boating, canoeing, fishing, golf, and, in the winter, snow skiing. The kitsch alone is enough to recommend the resorts, and if you go for that sort of thing this would be just your cup of tea. We had a blast. Final word of warning, watch the bubble bath in the champagne class tub, too much and you have as bubble disaster on your hands? we found out the hard way!

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No problem, Mon!

Ciboney Jamaica

Ciboney Jamaica

Jamaica is one of the most-traveled honeymoon islands in the Caribbean with tons of resorts, from small and intimate to places where the partying goes on ’til dawn. We chose something in between.

Ciboney (now, Sandals Jamaica) is about a forty minute bus ride from the Kingston airport and most airlines will fly direct from major US cities. My favorite airline to fly to the Caribbean is Air Jamaica. Now I know you may be wondering “who the hell is flying those planes?” But have no fear they have partnered with Delta and are extremely professional. And since they know most people are flying to either their honeymoon or anniversary they try to make the flight extra special. All their “lovebird” flights include free beer, wine and champagne (yummy), and they keep you entertained on even the shortest flights with videos, food and fashion shows.

On Arrival, you will be met at the airport and immediately handed a Red Stripe, the beer of Jamaica, then board a large greyhound sized bus for the ride to Ciboney. The roads are good for the most part, and the guides will point out places of interest along the way all the while continuing to ply you with Red Stripe. No worries – there will be a bathroom pit stop!

The resort sits up on a hill with breathtaking views of the Caribbean Sea. You will be ferried up to your villa in a golf cart and a porter will help you settle in. The villa will consist of four units in each building. There is a sitting room with decidedly uncomfortable rattan furniture (I guess they think you won’t spend too much time there) a full kitchen, fridge stocked with beer, wine, rum and juices and a bedroom with lovely louvered windows opening to the sweet smells of bougainvillea bushes. We were given the impression that our villa would also be stocked with snacks but that was unfortunately not the case, and a bit of a let down. There is a television in the sitting area with satellite TV should you want to watch sports or movies.

Behind the villa is a pool you will share with the other rooms in the villa. We lucked out in that there was only one other couple in our unit and they never seemed to use the pool. The resort is not directly on the ocean but they have rights to a beach at another resort just down the hill and a shuttle runs all day. The beach is small and fills up quickly. I found that a bit of a let down. They do have all of the requisite water sports available, wave runners, sailing, water-skiing, parasailing, diving etc. There are many wandering vendors on the beach, and you can get pretty much anything you want from them including the plant Jamaica is so well known for – ahem. The vendors can be quite pushy at times but usually a firm “no thank you” will work.

The resort is all-inclusive so your meals and drinks are covered. There are several restaurants which serve everything from traditional Jamaican fare to continental to burgers. I found the Jamaican patties addictive! Throughout the resort are paths that lead to several communal outdoor Jacuzzis, wonderfully refreshing after a walk.

The main house also has an impressive pool with waterfall and swim-up bar. The grounds are truly gorgeous but marred a bit by chain link fences with barbed wire at the top, giving the resort a bit of an “armed camp” feel. But since crime is a problem in Jamaica, I guess these measures are necessary.

The resort also boasts a spa. I found the spa lacking, the treatments seemed rushed and the spa therapists uninterested. In all I found the staff to be friendly but in a forced sort of way. The hospitality was a bit insincere.

All in all the price is right here, you get a lot for your money, but I had trouble getting over the fact that a lot of the smiling and “no problem mon” veiled a real dislike of visitor. To be fair, this is a very poor island and perhaps the attitude is understandable. There is much to see, from the gorgeous Blue Mountains that produce some of the world’s best coffee, to waterfalls and rivers. You can take jeep tours, horse back ride or just laze around in the sun. If it’s a good deal on luxury you are looking for Ciboney is for you!

A last word of warning: if you choose to indulge in the local “product”, DO NOT, repeat DO NOT, attempt to bring it back with you to the US – there will be dogs at the airport.

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Location, Location, Location

Hotel Tremoille - Paris

Hotel Tremoille - Paris

They often say in real estate that only three things matter: Location, Location, Location. Well, the Hotel Tremoille in Paris has these three things going for it, but that’s about all. The hotel is located in Central Paris on a (apparently) little known street called the rue de la Trémoille. When we arrived in Paris and got of the bus from the airport, we asked, in our broken French, where this street was located. The policeman checked his map and told us: “it is not in my guide”.

Hmmm, problem one.

Once we found the hotel, which is situated in between three of the most famous and travelled streets in Paris (Avenue Georges V, The Champ Elysees and Avenue Montainge), we discovered problem two. The hotel is rather shabby. Now, one might object and say that we are just a couple of pampered Americans that don’t understand European elegance. However, the humidity in our room was jungle-like, and the bed was quite possibly the lumpiest bed in any hotel in France. And believe me, I have slept in some pretty lumpy beds in the South of France as a college student including one that I rented in a shack owned by a fisherman in Marseilles.

Now for problem three: the management doesn’t seem to like Americans much. While much has been said of the animosity between the French and the Americans, for us it was palpable. When an Italian couple came it was hugs-and-kisses, but for us, the cold shoulder.

All that being said, the location is unparalleled. Walking distance to the Arch de Triomphe and Eiffel Tower and a short car ride to the Louvre, it really is close to just about everything. It is also quite close to the “memorial” for Princess Di, which we came across completely by chance.

My recommendation: location isn’t everything and avoid the Hotel Tremoille.

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